A hundred churches, kilometres of walls. To the less attentive traveller, these are the distinctive aspects of Lucca, a town in central Tuscany, but which are usually slightly at the margins of mass tourism. But, with patience, if a tourist decides to choose this town, it can offer so many surprises that there will be no regrets that they haven't visited the other usual, more popular destinations.
In the meantime, its position: Lucca is 20 kilometres from Pisa, 70 km from Florence and 25 km from the Versilia coastline. Its historical centre is almost completely closed to traffic, so it is easily visited on foot or by bike (see box).
The town's origins date back to Etruscan times. A fortified town in Roman times, it became the prey of the barbarians and of the Longobards and the Franks in particular. A small yet 
powerful state in the Middle Ages, then city-state and republic, Lucca also fell under the Napoleonic and Bourbon rule.
The town's long history can also be discovered through one of the principal characteristics of Lucca, over four kilometres of walls that surround the centre, around which there are large meadows without trees or houses, the so-called ‘tagliata’. The current walls are the fruit of four successive constructions. The first band consists of the ancient Roman walls; the building of the medieval band began between the 11th and 12th centuries. The wall belt was further extended around 1350 as a result of the urban expansion of the town. Finally, there's the fourth belt, whose works lasted from 1545 to 1650. The walls now run around the centre for approximately four kilometres and allow access to the heart of Lucca through the gates, as well as being a preferred destination for long walks.
Once in Lucca itself, a good place to begin is the central Via Fillungo, which shouldn't be missed for those who love to go shopping. It starts from Piazza San Frediano or the central Piazza Napoleone. From here, tourists can be swept away by the city's alleys and views, taking a break in the many churches that are still recognisable today (there were once 100, today there's around 80).
Among the monuments that you should visit, above all there's the Romanesque cathedral of San Martino; within which the Deposition of Christ by Nicola Pisano is kept, as well as the famous sarcophagus of Ilaria del Carretto, the deceased wife of Paolo Guinigi, the powerful gentleman of Renaissance Lucca. Among the other churches, there is also San Frediano, with its large façade embellished with a 13th century mosaic. The remains of the Roman amphitheatre are close by, as well as San Michele in Foro, with its Romanesque façade topped with a statue of St Michael Archangel, close to the Palazzo Pretorio. Lucca also offers a range of museums, including the Diocesan museum, Villa Guinigi and Palazzo Mansi, home of the national art gallery with masterpieces by Bronzino and Pontormo.
The town also offers many entertaining events: from Lucca Jazz Donna (February-March) to Lucca Animation (April-June), from the Summer Festival (July) to September in Lucca, with lights and procession. Don't forget Lucca comics&games, at the end of October, dedicated to comic heroes. And for those who wish to escape from the town, the Garfagnana mountains, Apuan Alps and the sea of the Versilia are only a short distance away.
BOX. How to get to Lucca
By car, you can take the A11 Firenze-Mare motorway, Lucca exit. By plane, the nearest airport is Pisa Galilei. By train, the station of central Lucca can be reached from Pisa, Florence and Viareggio. You can also arrive by bus: Lazzi buses are available from Florence in Piazza Adua (opposite the station of Santa Maria Novella) or from Viareggio, in Piazza Mazzini. From Viareggio, there are the Clap buses, but they leave from Piazza D’Azeglio.
There are a variety of shops if you want to hire a bike.
The bike hire service of the town council is in the San Donato barracks, at the Tourist Information Office Carisma in Piazzale Verdi (Tel. 0583.583150 Fax. 0583.582389). In terms of private businesses, there is Barbetti Cicli, via Anfiteatro, 23 (tel. 0583-954444); Cicli Bizzarri, piazza Santa Maria, 32 (tel. 0583-496031); and Poli Antonio Biciclette, piazza Santa Maria, 42 (tel. and fax. 0583-49378).
